Sam of Terracotta cutting Poke Root & Rosehip Bars, Fall 2020
Alchemical Art of Soapmaking
Nettle & Burdock Bars curing, Spring 2020
Our Ancestors made soap from Ashes, Animal & Plant Fats, and Water. Wood or Volcanic Ashes were rendered in Water to produce an Alkali Solution, Plants were pressed for oils, and tallow was rendered from animal bones. These Water & Oil Mixtures were combined and transformed into one all-purpose soap for the home. Chemically speaking, Soap is a Fatty Acid Salt, made by a process called ‘Saponification’ – an exothermic reaction that occurs when fatty acids (Oils/ Fats) are mixed with Sodium Hydroxide (Alkali Solution). The process of saponification allows the Oil & Water molecules to merge and transmute into a Soap Molecule. Sodium Hydroxide, or Lye as it is commonly called, is essential to initiate saponification and fundamentally transforms within the process, with no actual lye remaining at the end in the fully cured Soap Bar.
The Soap Molecule is extraordinary as it is comprised of both Oil and Water and therefore can mix with both. One end of the Soap Molecule is hydrophilic & polar, meaning it loves and binds with Water, and the other is hydrophobic & nonpolar, it ‘fears water’ and binds with grease and oil.
When soapy water created from you bar meets grease on your skin, the soap molecules arrange themselves into little clusters called “Micelles.” The water loving ends stick to water and point outward, forming the outer perimeter of the Micelle. The oil loving ends bind to the grease/ dirt on your skin and trap it in the center of the Micelle. The Oils are kept tucked in the center of this water-soluble molecule and as you wash and rinse your body, the dirt goes down the drain.
Seaweed & Salt Bars curing, Fall 2019
Unfortunately, today the Soaps that line department store aisles are, for the most part, not actually Soap. By definition, they are “Syndets,” or, Synthetic Detergents, Syndet being a marketing attempt to make these inferior products sound more appealing. Syndets do not meet the legal definition of Soap provided by the FDA and therefore can’t market themselves as such. As a result, there has been a lot of misinformation pushed onto the public regarding Soap being bad or too harsh for our skin – in order to further push “Body Washes, Lotion Bars, etc.” – all of which are Syndets.
These products are comprised of industrial detergents, unsustainable low-quality oils, synthetic colors & fragrances, preservatives, and more things which ultimately don’t serve a purpose in Soap. These ingredients fundamentally dissolve our outer protective layer of skin, disrupt our acid mantle, and since they do not contain actual Soap Molecules, often remain on our skin even after rinsing off.
Herbal Soap Bars are medicinal when made with true herbal infused oils & waters, carrying in them the water & oil soluble plants medicinal constituents. Herbal soaps made by the cold process method are gentle, hydrating, moisturizing, and safe for all skin types.
I make my herbal soap bars the same way our ancestors did for thousands of years. I infuse plants I grow into organic & ethically sourced oils and spring water. Believing that less is often truly more, I keep the ingredients list small, using just a couple oils in each batch, and never adding artificial colors or fragrances. I also do not add essential oils to my soaps – they are all unscented in the sense that they carry with them only their subtle natural aroma. All our soaps are cured for a minimum of 6 weeks, this is a crucial part of cold process soapmaking which ensure a safe & gentle bar. The longer soap is left to cure, the better it becomes and longer it will last.
Herbal Soap Bars fit into the ecological cycle. They come from the Earth. They return to the Earth each time they’re used, and when they’re gone, there is nothing to ‘throw away.’ Soap is essential to daily life and it is my hope that people will care about where they come from and how they’re produced.
Caring for Soap is simple but important! Allow Soap to fully dry in between uses by placing it on a dish that allow the four main sides to breathe. Soap dishes exist for this purpose, but any kind of small dish works well! Each time you use the Soap, give it a good rinse under hot water, and then use straight on Skin or lather it in your hands or a washcloth. Keep it out of the direct running water when not in use. Let it dry & repeat.
Lastly, I feel it’s important to remind you that your body is a highly intelligent, self-cleaning system – it is not necessary to wash with soap every day, unless your activities call for it. There is nothing inherently dirty about us. A good wash with soap a few times a week simply helps our bodies largest organ to eliminate toxins, wash off the things that latch onto us throughout our days, and to hydrate, moisturize & tone.
Cafe con Leche Bars being cut, Fall 2020